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With the tools selected, you also need to make sure you have the right set of collets. You can find lower-cost collets from many other, more obscure brands - but they are not always particularly good.
Oh, one more thing: It is always preferable to use the upper value: Periodic testing and troubleshooting Before embracing any complex or high-precision projects, it is important to understand the performance of your mill, and see if anything needs to be fixed, adjusted, or compensated for.
If you neglect this step, you will find that troubleshooting mill accuracy issues in complex, real-world projects tends to be a daunting task, simply due to the sheer number of variables to look at.
The essential tool that you will need to perform the initial measurements is a micron-resolution dial indicator with a magnetic base. For lower-cost mills with a rotary tool acting as a spindle, you may be better served by a 0.
Spindle TIR The first thing to check is the runout of the spindle and the tool holder.
Wipe clean the internal spindle taper and the collet use WD if there is any excess grease or other accummulated dirt; a small brass brush works well for any stubborn gunkand install a tool that extends at least about mm from the collet.
Next, affix the dial indicator to the table or other sturdy surface, make the tip of the indicator touch the tool near the spindle, and observe the change in readings as you gently turn the spindle by hand, preferably at the top the mill should be turned off, of course.
Be very careful not to exert any unnecessary pressure on any of the parts. Finally, if possible, remove the tool and the collet, and reposition the indicator to make contact with the internal taper of the spindle the measuring tip now pointing up.
Repeat the procedure, and write down the result - Rtaper. If it is excessive, it may be time to service the spindle e. If the value is high, examine the collet for dirt and damage again, WD is a pretty good cleaning liquid. Small tool holder misalignment can be often "fixed" simply by adjusting the tightening torque, or applying a gentle pressure to the appropriate side of the tool when tightening the nut.
You can see if the TIR is increasing, decreasing, or staying about the same in relation to Rcollet - and use that to extrapolate the apparent diameter of the tip.
If you are seeing something much worse, poke around and see if you can improve it: In more complex cases, switching around or rearranging the existing bearings inside the spindle, or replacing them with new ones, will often do the trick. The test you should perform is exceedingly simple: When done, gently rotate the tool to find the mid-point of its TIR, and then programmatically move the spindle up by about 1 cm.
The same procedure should be repeated after repositioning the dial indicator to make contact with the side of the tool rather than the front. If everything is fine, you should see no appreciable change in the values shown by the dial indicator; a few microns may be fine, but if the difference is getting close to 0.
The issue is almost always trivial to fix: Spindle vibration The spindle assembly is typically fairly heavy, and under normal operating conditions, will be rotating rapidly. At these speeds, any poorly balanced rotating part, any malfunctioning ball bearing, and any damaged transmission belt may easily introduce significant vibration - and that vibration will inevitably propagate to the end mill or the workpiece.
Attach your dial indicator to the table or other part of the mill frame, and let the tip touch any non-rotating part of the spindle. Remove the tool, grab a long screwdriver, and carefully touch any non-rotating part of the spindle with its tip. Be vigilant, and keep your body and the screwdriver itself well clear of any moving parts.
If the spindle is to blame, replacing the internal bearings would be the obvious next step. Repeat accuracy Repeat accuracy is the single most important factor limiting the precision of the parts you can make. Even if you are not planning to machine anything particularly intricate, this parameter is still worth checking: To estimate the accuracy of the machine, brace the tip of the dial indicator against the side of the spindle assembly, and then programmatically move the spindle away in the X axis, in 0.
After about steps or so, reverse the direction, and gradually move back to the starting point. Jerky stepping may be due the increments not being a multiple of the actual hardware resolution of the mill, or due to wiring problems in the stepper motor.
The actual travel distance, as measured by the dial indicator, should match the expected distance closely. The locations of the steps when moving away from the dial indicator should be the same as when moving back; and the spindle should return to the same starting position at the end of the test.
Any observable offset is probably due to backlash - which should be in the micron range. Of course, try to repeat this procedure for all axes. If in any of them, repeat accuracy is worse than 0. The last parameter of note is the loss of accuracy you can expect if the mill is braking or accelerating rapidly, or aggressively plowing through a difficult workpiece.
The value depends on the rigidity of mill frame, and the type and quality of its linear motion systems. The test here is extremely simple:A un clic.
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